Christian Ciattei – Salisbury University Bellevance Honors Program
Tropical Biodiversity Studies – Costa Rica 2020
Jan 8, 2020 – Jan 18, 2020
Introductions to a New Country – 1/8/2020
San Jose, Costa Rica

I’ve always been skeptical about the term “welcoming population”. Having lived my life exclusively travelling between east-coast American cities, I found it difficult to believe that an entire city could have an atmosphere that made me feel comfortable. However, my perception was shattered upon entering San Jose, Costa Rica.
Before today, I had never been on a plane, let alone been in a foreign country. Though I was of course thrilled to be given the opportunity to experience a new country almost in its entirety, it was nonetheless going to be a bit jarring. The stress and chaos of travelling from airport to airport was enough to make me temporarily forget that I was about to be leaving the United States for the first time in my life. However, immediately after entering Juan Santamaria International Airport, reality struck.
While Costa Rica is relatively easy to navigate for English-speakers, it was still a culture shock to be yelled instructions in Spanish and have difficulty understanding what the people around me were saying. I have a limited understanding of Spanish, so I could deduce what most of the signs were saying, but even that came as a bit of a shock. This pattern persisted throughout my afternoon in San Jose. I went to the Auto Mercado store near our hotel in the afternoon, and had a bit of difficulty communicating with the cashier. She greeted me by saying “Buenas Tardes”, which I knew to mean “Good Afternoon”, but I was still too caught off guard to give a proper response. Even though I know very well that I am in a Spanish-speaking country, being spoken to in a language that I have difficulty understanding has been a very eye-opening experience. I now have a better understanding of what it must be like for people in the U.S. with a limited knowledge of English. Even if a person has some knowledge of the native language of a country in which they are visiting, practicing is never the same as being thrown into a situation where using the language is an expectation or a necessity.
The difference between my experience and that of non-English speakers in the U.S., however, is that Costa Ricans are accommodating and appreciative of any attempt given to speak Spanish. When my cashier saw that I didn’t know very much Spanish, she did her best to communicate with me in English. When I said “Gracias” to her in an attempt to remedy the potential rudeness of my lack of response to her greeting, she seemed pleasantly surprised, even with the minimal effort that it required. This same reaction was exhibited by a waiter at our hotel to one of my fellow students this evening.
In a city so swamped with American tourists, I would fully expect the locals to see us as unwelcome annoyances. Yes, tourism is very profitable for the nation of Costa Rica, but that doesn’t change the fact that the people of San Jose are forced to accommodate to people who are ignorant of their culture and often times make no effort to learn their language. The fact that I could walk the streets of San Jose taking pictures of the vibrant scenery and the natural beauty by which it is surrounded without feeling unsafe for “giving myself away” as a tourist is a testament to the city’s atmosphere. I now am a firm believer that a city as a whole can be welcoming, and San Jose is a textbook definition of that.

Finally, while the scenery has been mentioned, I would like to discuss how San Jose defied my romanticized expectations. Costa Rica has always been described to me as a pristine, nature-loving nation that is the exception to the rule in Central America. I was a little shocked to see just how similar San Jose was to other Latin American cities I had seen in various media. It is by no means pristine, and I didn’t see a very impressive skyline, but that did not make it any less beautiful and vibrant. San Jose has character like no city I have ever been to before. Even though that may not be saying much, I truly believe that San Jose’s natural surroundings combined with the general liveliness and bustle of the city will leave a lasting impression on me, as it gave me a glimpse of the true beauty of Latin America.
1/9/2020- 1/10/2020
Tortuguero, Costa Rica

While my first afternoon in Costa Rica was already a drastically new experience for me, nothing could have prepared me for the days that would follow. Compared to the relative familiarity of the Quality Inn and busy metropolitan area from which I last wrote, the Rana Roja Lodge in Tortuguero is truly a wild place. On the bus leaving San Jose, the new world I was about to experience was already on breathtaking display. As we drove through Braulio Carrillo National Park, I was in awe of the undisturbed rain forest vista that extended as far as the eye could see. The fact that this scenery could exist in a country the size of West Virginia was just a sneak-peek at the incredible commitment that Costa Rica has to preserving its environment.

Driving through the scenic countryside, I was anxious to experience this nature first hand. But on the way, I couldn’t help but notice the beauty that could be found in every small town along the way. People greeted one another, often stopping to talk instead of looking down and walking by coldly. Even the buildings in the towns seemed inviting, with vibrant colors and small, simple structures. The general atmosphere in this countryside was a far cry from any community I’d seen before.
Upon arriving at the location from which our boat departed (boats are the only way to access Tortuguero), I was immediately hit with the reality of the conditions with which I would have to cope for the next 2 days. The weather was much hotter and stickier than it was in the comfortable highlands of the San Jose region. The ride to our hotel would be 45 minutes long, and on a thin, decrepit boat on which our luggage would be precariously placed before we boarded. On the rocky ride to the hotel, I would get a glimpse of the reason that coping with these conditions would be worth it: the wildlife. A group of Central American Spider Monkeys would pass us by. We would see a small crocodile sun bathing next to a heron. The thrill of finally experiencing this natural beauty for myself would make me temporarily forget the heat and humidity.

Emphasis should be placed on the word “temporarily”. Our hotel, the Rana Roja Lodge, lies in the middle of the rain forest. To get to the rooms, one must pass through a short, elevated path through the jungle. The rooms themselves didn’t provide much relief. The windows are merely screens, and a single ceiling fan is the only source of cooling available. There is no escaping from the rain forest conditions here.

Later in the day, we visited Tortuguero Village and the local Sea Turtle Conservancy. Similar to the inland countryside, I was once again struck by how alive this small town felt. Music was playing at every step, children and dogs ran around the narrow streets, and the smell of the street food was strong and omnipresent. Before we entered the town, our tour guide told us not to feel sorry for how little the people of Tortuguero possessed. He told us that they were happy. I was a little skeptical of this going into the town, thinking that he only told us that because tourists don’t want to know the true struggles of the local people. However, after experiencing the village, I truly understand what he meant. Never have I felt so much pure energy and wonder just walking through the streets of any city or town. Not even New York City could compare to Tortuguero in my mind.

Another aspect of Tortuguero that instilled awe in me is the commitment of the people to protecting the area’s natural beauty. In the past, Tortuguero’s economy was based on the killing of sea turtles for meat and shells among other products. Today, its people have facilitated their home town’s rise to global prominence as a sea turtle nesting site, researching location, and sanctuary. In a world plagued by a lack of respect for the environment (especially rain forests), it brought me great hope and inspiration to see a community rise and prosper alongside its environment. You hear these stories quite often, but experiencing it first hand is unforgettable and impactful beyond imagination.
The future of this world’s wildlife, especially in tropical environments (like Costa Rica) where it is most abundant and most threatened, is of utmost importance to me. Someday I hope to play a part in its protection. Living among this wildlife: waking up to Capuchin Monkeys loudly dropping fruits on the roof of the hotel, seeing a Red-Eyed Tree Frog on a leaf on the grounds, stumbling upon iguanas fighting for territory in the trees above, is beyond inspiring. On the boat tours through the rivers around the hotel, looking into the jungle ahead, I felt an overwhelming appreciation for the gift that is the environment. This new level of appreciation and determination could only be reached by seeing it for myself.

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